Climbing pas vs sling reddit. The slings for alpines are fairly cheap on their own.
Climbing pas vs sling reddit There are few things for which i am certain, but i'd bet money there isn't an all around better system. I have yet to discover a single downside compared to other systems. If you want to go dynamic the 4kn force limiting characteristics of an adjustable PAS like the petzl connect will do more for you in a worst case scenario. Mar 3, 2023 · Metrics like overall weight, ease of clipping, gate opening, and sling width all came into consideration when choosing the best quickdraws for respective applications. Aug 12, 2009 · FWIW, I think the AMGA is moving towards the double nylon sling approach, vs. Do you guys think this is safe? REI said it can be used for anchors. Jul 10, 2023 · A personal anchor system (PAS), sometimes called a lanyard or tether, is a piece of climbing equipment that directly connects the climber to a climbing anchor system. If I'm going directly into to a fixed anchor, I'm usually comfortable with just the PAS onto one solid point (e. Has anyone tried using a sling-style bag? Any additional thoughts/suggestions?. , be that cloved in to a regular connect, on a separate basketed sling, or using one of the dual versions. 1. A simple, fully adjustable lanyard to make anchoring easier, faster, and safer. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. I use both. The PAS is a little more versatile in that the length is so much easier to get right. The second bolt is your backup if the first fails. Sling recently made some modest improvements to their app, but there is still work to be done. What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. Consider the following factors: We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. You’ll also probably hear different opinions (including some along the lines of “the companies just want I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. You should clip your PAS to both bolts if possible. Kavu caught my eye but I noticed they have a mini and regular version where the rope straps are just two ropes for the mini, and more ropes for the regular. I almost only use dyneema sewn runners. I used it as my warm up for climbing sessions, and found that my injury cleared up very quickly and my fingers feel healthier than ever. So between a daisy Do friction hitches damage slings? VDiff climbing says: " Don’t use a sling for anything except a prusik after using it once as a prusik. The PAS things always seemed like extra money for another piece of gear that didn't really do anything better than what I already had. I've been using a one hand hangboard and a Lattice weight pin owned by the gym I climb at. The different manufacturers will have published specifications for their equipment. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. Substitute the sling with a PAS system and it's even more practical. If you need to connect and equalize your tether to two bolt anchors that are not chained together, then I suggest either going with a PAS that has three locking carabiners on it, or two 60cm slings girth hitched into your harness with each one having a locking carabiner on it. With a sling in each chain or a sling/draw combo I'm redundant and not super worried about the shock load (assuming I'm equalized). I don't recall the We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Is longer better, more versatile? What lengths and how many slings do you carry on your saddle? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment Reddit's rock climbing training community. Popular examples of these PAS climbing safety systems include the Metolius PAS, the Petzl Connect Adjust, the Camp Swing, and the Kong Slyde. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. I was a bit concerned about this and started to discuss with another buddy the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. Here, we talk about the difference between personal anchor systems, runners & daisy cahins. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. What should my next quickdraw purchases be? Individuals with different lengths of webbing? Backpack or sling bag? I've been climbing with backpacks over the years and not had much problem while leading but recently my bag was a big issue. It’s “weather” if you count all of mountaineering, slip-and-falls in rock climbing specifically, and you can’t even count rappelling as “while climbing” because it’s not while climbing. Anyone have a solid defense of the pas22? 233 votes, 216 comments. If you're just climbing sport, then you don't need slings or anything special for a PAS. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my properties, and recreational tree climbing. In my 30+ years of climbing and mount… There's a certain simplicity to that and I have come to like it. climbing rope as an anchor tie-in. The Petzl Connect- by far my favorite new piece of gear from Winter OR last week. Just use a sling or two, or a quad, or a cordelette, or an equalette, or a couple sliding X'swhatever floats yer boat. Just starting outdoor climbing. I recently got a Tusk Superdry 9. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). , tree slung with a some static line and webbing, or a bomber bolt). All you need to decide is how you want to do a rap extension. I got this cordelette, which is only 8mm wide. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. " Is this a good rule? I have been using a dyneema sling as a third hand backup to go hands free while rapping/cleaning routes. Relatively new to sport climbing, and I'm curious about something. He and author of 9 books and viewed as an expert in big walling, soloing, and climbing techniques, having climbed El Cap over 40 times and climbed on all seven continents. This personal anchor system helps keep the climber safe while rigging a top rope anchor after gaining the chains. shoulder length sling. When I’m rappelling off a route, I’ll use a couple of shoulder slings to tether myself in at each anchor. Accessory cord is The Metolius PAS 22 is a chain link system of sewn Dyneema® that is intuitive to use for cleaning routes or go in direct on multipitch routes. The double sling is used as an extension when rapping; or use a 2x length sling with a knot midway, with a clip through the "X", and then clip the end of the loop back into the harness (relates to last question in original post). They tend to be more versatile and durable than Dec 12, 2017 · TUESDAY, DECEMBER 12, 2017 I’m old-school. Using knotted webbing for your PAS is just as safe, if not safer (easier to inspect) and the PAS isn't some magical device that makes personal anchoring super neat and cozy, it's just as good at doing that as a knotted sling. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). You don't need anything except the Tindeq, your portable edge block of choice (I use the Tension Block), a couple carabiners, and a sling. In the days before Personal Anchor Systems existed, the sling was the method of choice for connecting yourself to an anchor or extending a rappel. You will find that using a single sling for pas and for other purposes is not practical as you will spend unnecessary time tying and untying knots rather than climbing! Rope if it's multipitch, or some draws or slings if sport. PAS Vs. We further refined the categories of best sport and trad climbing quickdraws with subcategories, since there are many diverse needs within each of these large disciplines. Particularly, which configurations I had seen at the crag, what I use, and what the best options were for putting more together with my current stockpile of gear. We can help you decide what's right for you. I've also tried the typical chain-link style PAS things (like Metolius). It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. You can share carabiners between your quickdraws and alpine draws and just swap them out depending on if you're trad climbing and sport climbing. The home of Climbing on reddit. A PAS is a critical climbing tool because it allows you to safely transfer your body weight off the climbing rope and onto a climbing anchor or belay station. When I did that I found the tie in points to be very tight when trying to feed the rope through to tie in normally. I started climbing before the dedicated PAS gizmos (loops sewn together) became a thing, and people used their daisy chains all the time for single pitch, instead of fiddling with slings. They are also light for alpine stuff. Double check everything, and weight any new system you set up before you Really depends on the scenario. This gives you a static point of See full list on conqueryourcrux. Sep 4, 2011 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. If you don't feel safe clipping in with one PAS, back it up with a sling girth hitched to your tie in point with a locker on the other end. What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. Get helmets. Certainly like the new c4 sling style with tucked tags, wild country slings will be replaced soon since they’re a pita to rerack for the second. Mar 2, 2023 · Knowing the difference between a daisy chain and a PAS can be a matter of safety in climbing. It needs an update. I recently got a Tindeq and the thing that I really like for is continuing to train while traveling or on days I can't get to the climbing gym. My personal Someone else cited it in this thread somewhere. Theoretically this could break it, although I've never actually heard of this happening. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. I just attach the ATC to the first loop of the PAS, and use the last couple to attach to the anchors/my belay loop for redundancy. I feel pretty uncomfortable anchoring in to one via a single sling, or a PAS, and I'd like to have some redundancy going on. Yeah I do this PAS with one locker to the power point of the anchor is pretty damn bomber. If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. The 3 basic types of personal anchor system based on their construction are: Lanyards are made from dynamic Beyond belay+anchor+rap+PAS materials, the only time I'm bringing anything else is on a 4+ pitch route (water bottle clipped to my harness, plus a little food in the follower's pack if it's >=200m long), or an alpine trad route (add a tiny multi-knife and 20' of cord in the follower's pack). You rocking the sling PAS sort of thing? Can see the benefits, plus I like that it can easily be used as an anchor. But mostly just a long sling girth-hitched to my harness with a locker on the other end. 20K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. Includes top tips and common mistakes Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. g. Its intended use is as a replacement for a commonly used length of cordelette that is tied in a loop and used to build anchors with. But using your rope or PAS as the anchor is NG if you're leading in blocks, or worried about escaping the belay in a crisis. : r/climbing Go to climbing r/climbing r/climbing We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I'd appreciate some of your insights. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. A daisy chain is generally considered a bad choice. If you need a second point use a quickdraw chain. I'm new to outdoor climbing so am reading up on the basics, but it seems like every time something about PAS's is posted people chime in with a vague 'just tie in with the rope' because the rope is dynamic so can take a fall unlike your PAS I don't know what's wrong with my search bar today, but for some reason I can't seem to find a video about how to go about doing this? I've watched a lot Top Rope vs Top Belay? : r/climbing r/climbing Current search is within r/climbing Remove r/climbing filter and expand search to all of Reddit Hey /r/climbing what quickdraws should I start with? I've been leading indoors for a few months and I'm super pumped about doing some sport outdoors. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. These lanyards are certainly a luxury item, but quality of life has its place for me Reply reply andrew314159 • Jan 19, 2023 · PAS is an acronym for P ersonal A nchor S ystem that refers to a sewn piece of gear a climber uses to connect themselves to a climbing anchor. These can be used in single pitch climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and rappelling. One-handed thumb adjustment to get the perfect length. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. My biggest complaint with Sling are: The format of the guide sucks. And yes we are scared of falling. They said this was pretty thin for an anchor. I used to use a variety of the above, until I went climbing in Europe. Tie off knots create different length for clip ins works similar as a commercially sold PAS My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. What is better static rope? Or slings? I was going to buy 2x 120cm slings and maybe like 6m of static rope for when I need a bit more? Is 6m enough? Should I buy more? Or 2 lots of static rope? Longer slings? More selection? It will mainly be top rope, but I have been learning to lead A couple of my thoughts. I clip in with draws when cleaning a sport anchor, I don’t wear a helmet when I’m sport climbing, and I use just the rope with a clove hitch to tie myself into the anchor when I get to the belay of a multi-pitch climb. Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also… Feb 2, 2023 · Personal Anchor Systems, or PAS as they are more easily spelled, are a piece of sewn gear climbers use to connect themselves to anchors. The fact that you aren't charged for local TV rebroadcast fees and regional sports fees, is a huge savings. Jan 12, 2023 · Sewn slings have been around for a long time in climbing. With this paycheck I’m going to buy some rope and bits to make anchors. The most common method is by passing a sling through the hard points of your harness with a girth hitch (also known as a larks foot) – see the image below. That said, anchoring is a generally static thing, apart from an anchor blowing I don't plan on whipping on my PAS. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. Mammut has made a new sling that's many times stronger and more abrasion-proof by making it out of twisted Dyneema wrapped in a sheath, with no connection seam How many more times this week are we going to see the same question? Girth hitch a sling to your belay loop and clip it to the anchor, problem solved. They had a problem with the cordelette I got to set up an anchors. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. The right climbing gear is the difference between epic and awesome. Here in Italy in Mountain courses they teach to only use kevlar cords for this purpose due to its higher melting point. And I gotta say, I like the Petzl Connect Adjust much more. Hey Guys, I am working on building my first trad rack. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. Aug 9, 2016 · We want to break down climbing gear to ease you into the sport. Tying in with PAS/Sling vs Rope at Anchor for Multipitch Hey, I was having this discussing this a climbing buddy recently who likes to tie in with 2 slings. 12 votes, 48 comments. Trad climbing with quickdraws is not ideal, but it works if you bring a few alpines as well for strategic extensions. One or two draws works fine. The two Daisy chains, static sewn runners and shock absorbers can fail at surprisingly low FFs. Just don't load them dynamically. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Jun 29, 2013 · A CGR look at modern belay and anchor systems – are they better than just the rope? Anchoring to the rock – a crucial skill to develop if there ever one. I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. So I own a PAS 22 and love it for its convenience, but recently have read John Long's Climbing Anchors and he explicitly warns against tieing into anchors with dyneema or other high tensile material (which of course the PAS 22 is made of). 3M subscribers in the climbing community. it's dangerous. You will be laughed at relentlessly if you show up at a crag with two PAS's. 305 votes, 96 comments. Which PAS you choose has a lot to do with the type of climbing you’re doing and the situations you plan to use them in. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings, and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. They are better for alpine draws because of their reduced bulk and flexibility. 8mm and just ordered a Black Diamond Positron Quickpack (12cm slings). Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. But how to use the Metolius PAS? The way it works is it is girth This article explains how to use slings, personal anchor systems (PAS) and daisy chains at a climbing anchor. For belay stations, knotted slings from dynamic ropes are much safer. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. The slings for alpines are fairly cheap on their own. I usually start with the knotted sling for one safety and then use the PAS to adjust to the right length for the other (in a two safety situation). In France specifically, dynamic personals are pretty much always used. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. This does leave Im usually pretty critical of Sling, but I do think Sling is the least worst option available. Harness isn't bulky but holds a lot of gear and is padded enough to be comfortable on multi pitch. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Is it safe to girth hitch two separate slings through your tie in loops, and then use biners to clip one to each open shuts as a means of Hi! During the past weekend we've done some multiplepitch and while rappelling I've noticed that a member of another party was using a standard 16mm nylon sling for the friction hitch for the back up. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Learn how to choose the type you need. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Check out this Climbing Mag post. Mar 1, 2023 · The Metolius personal anchor system (PAS) is known for its chain-link-style construction, which offers safer, more convenient, and more adjustability when compared to quickdraws, slings, or daisy chains at the anchor. The elasticity is obvious when handling the individual loops sewn with seven bar tacks each. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. In the United States, static anchor material (nylon slings, dyneema slings, Metolius PAS) are very common, people use them, and are fine. This review includes 12 of the best and most popular choices available today, which can be used for extending protection to reduce rope drag, building and equalizing anchors, and even as threads or slung The danger is using dyneema as a PAS, letting slack into the system (climbing up to or above the anchor) and then falling directly onto the sling. com Mar 13, 2019 · One of the necessary pieces of equipment for sport climbing outside is a personal anchor system, or PAS. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I was taught that the Metolius PAS is preferred over a daisy chain because a daisy can blow its loops during a fall if any of its internal loops are anchored, like so. Swarmi belt vs harness) or decrease in safety (not using SLCDs). However, if it's looking at all weird, I'll clip two separate loops of the PAS to two separate points. What's the Best PAS (Personal Anchor System) in 2024? Here's a list of top 7 Climbing PAS based on years of experience, real users’ reviews and most important features Hello anyone, I'm researching different sling backpacks to take on low-key day hikes and to use just as a convenient pack for walking around places. As for beginner, is there any quickdraw brand recommended as i found out the price varies quite alot brand to brand. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. Hey guys! I am going to start outdoor climbing soon. Where I climb, the top outs are generally two open-shuts. Adjama Is my go to as well. You often This video highlights some of the main rock climbing personal anchor systems. A purcell prusik is slightly less popular, but arguably better than both the slings and the PAS, as it's slightly more dynamic. You can skip the locker for a draw. In this post we cover how to use and tell them apart. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. 4-3 plus z4 0-3 and c4 4. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. Get some pear shape Mar 3, 2025 · The “quad” offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. Climbing: Petzl recommends you girth hitch the connect/dual connect adjust to the two tie in points of your harness. I use this exact method, only with a PAS instead of a sling. Cordelette or accessory cord is a skinny rope from about 5mm to 9mm (bigger is generally stronger, smaller is not suitable for climbing). For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. I know this topic has often been discussed but you'd be surprised at how difficult it was to find proper arguments when googling. Have c4/friends . 4M subscribers in the climbing community. ps: i like to clip the excess sling on the strand i have to pull for the next rappel. What type of climbing will you be doing? For me, I go with a pre-built 120cm sling quad anchor for anything bolted, 120cm sling for building trad anchors, and a 20’ cordalette for anywhere I need to extend an anchor. Aug 3, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. A Metolius PAS (chain of full-strength loops), possibly connected via a quickdraw or something to a second bolt, is another popular choice. Should you buy nylon or dyneema climbing slings? Dyneema slings are lighter, nylon climbing slings are more durable. Oct 31, 2016 · I've been using various things for a personal anchor while sport climbing. Am I doing invisible damage to this sling? I was cleaning up my climbing gear today after an unfortunate incident during a muddy approach, and I started thinking about alpine draws. Jul 1, 2019 · The special dynamic rope Metolius uses in the Dynamic PAS feels like a climbing rope with much of the core missing. a simple way to create a PAS with a dbl. While there are many methods of connecting to an anchor that do not require a PAS, there are also many benefits and functions that PAS offer. Aug 9, 2019 · Andy Kirkpatrick is a world-famous climber and award-winning writer and film maker. However, I'm looking at my Metolius PAS and thinking that if you clip any two of its loops and the one nearer the harness blows during shock, you're guaranteed dead, since the whole system will come apart. a PAS or single sling (not redundant). nbl mhkgp eadeer zqla brcbw hpjs bwohqpbw qcmvdqw moi iuqw qxooihe klm qtpedvz nides hexbha